Phrae

Phrae is the small, unhurried capital of Phrae Province in northern Thailand, set beside the Yom River and surrounded by forested hills. Once a prosperous teak-trading centre, the town is known today for its well-preserved wooden mansions, Lanna heritage and a relaxed pace that feels far removed from nearby Chiang Mai.

The town's character grew out of the 19th and early 20th-century teak trade, and elegant teak buildings still line the old centre. The pink Khum Wongburi mansion and Khum Chao Luang, the former residence of Phrae's last ruler, are among the best-known examples. Wat Phra That Cho Hae, the province's most sacred temple, stands on a hill east of town with a gold-covered chedi.

Other landmarks include Wat Chom Sawan, a Burmese-Shan style temple with distinctive carved architecture, and the Free Thai (Seri Thai) Museum, which tells the story of local resistance during the Second World War. Just outside town, Phae Mueang Phi Forest Park protects unusual eroded sandstone pillars and walking trails.

Phrae is also known for mo hom, the indigo-dyed cotton fabric made in the area, and for its low-key food scene, morning markets and cafés set in restored wooden shophouses.

For travellers, Phrae is a calm, heritage-focused stop on routes through northern Thailand, with Phrae Airport close to town and Den Chai railway station about 25 km to the south providing onward connections.